Here are our top tips for things to do in January:

Plant rootball stock

Now is a good time for planting trees, shrubs and hedging. These include bare-rooted plants and rootballed stock from our fields which can only be dug during dormancy. Always select plants appropriate to the conditions on site and take time to make appropriate site preparations to help the plants get the best possible start. We can provide you with all the advice you need about site preparation and aftercare, but we will ask you for information regarding the conditions on site. If in doubt, why not book a site visit so that we can come to you and assess the site for you?

Pruning

Apple and pear fruit trees should be pruned now in mid-winter. Pplums and cherries require summer pruning.

Weather allowing, give Wisteria its New Year prune in mid-January to encourage flowering in spring. The long whippy shoots produced last summer should have been cut back to about five buds in August. These now need to be pruned back further to two or three buds to concentrate all the energy into these for flower production rather than leaf growth. If you missed the summer pruning, it is still worth trying the hard pruning now.

Repairs

After storms and gales, check for signs of damage to trees, shrubs or hedge plants. If necessary, prune to leave a tidy cut rather than tears or splits which could spread or be an entry point for infection. Check newly-planted plants for signs of heave or wind rock, as well as checking stakes and ties. If you have a storm-damaged fence, consider whether you might be better off just planting a hedge instead.

If we get heavy snow, give clipped hedges or topiary a gentle shake to remove some of it and reduce the weight to avoid damage or the shapes being spoilt.

During periods of snow or frosts, rabbits and hares struggle to eat the frozen grass and often resort to gnawing stems and bark to get to the sap and soft tissues beneath. If they do enough damage and/or ring-bark the tree it could die. Therefore if you are planning to plant trees where rabbits are an issue, ensure that you add rabbit guards.

Need specific advice? Just ask!

Most deciduous shrubs that have lost their shape or need their growth restricting can be hard pruned now. It is quite amazing to see just how vigorously hard pruned shrubs grow back over the coming months.

Before you start pruning, carefully assess the plant to see what shape you are trying to achieve. Then start pruning carefully. Remember to stand back regularly to assess what further work needs to be done to achieve your goal rather than attacking it with one big hack.

Branches up to 1cm in diameter can be tackled with a good pair of secateurs. Larger branches will need a pair of loppers or a pruning saw according to size. Aim to remove weak, crossing or rubbing branches and any that appear to be diseased until the desired shape is achieved. Try to prune back to an obvious point such as where another branch grows out or to an obvious dormant bud. It is best to avoid great ‘amputations’ that can result in masses of weak regrowth that also spoils the shape of the shrub.

Most summer and autumn flowering shrubs will still flower normally the same year if pruned now. If they don’t, they will usually reward you with an extra heavy flowering the following year. Spring flowering shrubs are best pruned after flowering. However if you need to prune now then you’ll only lose the flowering for one season. Plus the plant will probably flower more strongly the following year.

There are some exceptions:

Japanese acers can react quite poorly to hard pruning.

Some shrubs such as Amelanchier are better thinned. This means selectively remove entire branches, thereby keeping an open structure. This maintains their grace rather than an all-over prune.

For some flowering shrubs, such as Lilac, Mock Orange, etc, the traditional advice would be to work to a three year cycle. Completely cut out the oldest stems/branches, roughly a third of them each year. This keeps the shrub refreshed and to stop it getting too congested and woody. You don’t need to worry too much about doing this if the shrub is still relatively young. It’s more of a factor when the shrub is already getting quite old and woody and needs “restoring”. If you do just prune the whole thing back hard at this time of year it will produce lots of new, young growth which, if it doesn’t flower this year, will do so next year. There’s no need to over complicate pruning and no need to worry.

Need specific advice? Just ask!

We’d be delighted to offer our suggestions for your needs and site conditions. Simply contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk or call 01723 862406. We can also create a bespoke quote.

Here at Wykeham, all of our Instant Hedging range is available to purchase as rootball stock including Yew, Hollies and our premium Laurel hedging. So if you’re looking to plant an instant hedge or screen, now is the time to place your order.

What is a rootball?

When referring to rootball plants, it simply means that the plant has been lifted from the ground with its complete rootball intact. A highly specialised piece of machinery lifts the plant and its roots from the ground. The roots and soil are then wrapped in hessian and a wire mesh to ensure they are kept secure. The hessian and wire mesh are then left on the plant when it is planted and will decompose over time.

Why buy rootball stock?

Plants which are field grown, rather than container grown, are much more mature and well-established. They have been growing in the fields for a minimum of four years, depending on their height. This will create a greater instant impact due to their superior density.

When buying rootball stock you can be assured that the plant has been transplanted with minimal damage to its roots. They will continue to remain happy and healthy, growing well once in the new location provided a proper watering and maintenance regime has been adhered to.

We also supply a range of smaller hedging plants in containers which can be planted all year round. So if you do need something smaller to plant in the summer, these could be a good option.

Need specific advice? Just ask!

If you’d like to discuss your requirements with one of experienced team, please get in touch. We’d be delighted to offer our suggestions for your needs and site conditions. Simply contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk or call 01723 862406. We can also create a bespoke quote.

March can be an odd month for temperatures. Our gardens can be bathed in warm sunshine or buried under snow. So it’s important to regularly check containers and newly planted evergreens for watering if not frozen. Remember that plants’ moisture requirements will increase with their rate of growth. If warm spells induce early growth, be ready with some horticultural fleece to protect the plant when the inevitable frost comes.

Prune roses, ideally before the leaf buds start to open. However unless you are growing them for the show table there is usually no need to prune them as hard or as fussily as has traditionally been taught. Most, if the stems aren’t too thick, will actually perform better if simply cut with a hedge trimmer into a tidy shape. However, if Rust or Blackspot fungal diseases were a problem last year, now is the time to give them a preventative spray or two with an appropriate fungicide. If you wait until the symptoms are visible on the leaves it is already too late to get on top of it for the year.

Providing that conditions are not frozen, March is the ideal time for hard pruning and tidying many of the vigorous deciduous shrubs, such as ornamental Elders (Sambucus). As well as those which flower in mid to late summer, such as Buddleia. This is also the best time to hard prune Dogwoods (Cornus) to promote fresh growth of vividly-coloured stems for next winter’s display.

As growth starts, early spring is a good time to feed woody plants with a balanced fertiliser. We recommend Fish, Blood and Bone or a good rose food. You can also spread any remaining usable compost from the compost bin that wasn’t dug-in earlier in the winter. Plus mulch beds to help prevent soils from drying out in summer.

Spike and scarify the lawn. If conditions are mild enough for grass growth, you may need to give the lawn its first cut of the year this month. Do remember to raise the height of the blades though.

Look out for weeds. Dealing with them now will save a lot of work later.

Check the roots of container plants for Vine Weevil grubs before they have a chance to pupate into adults.

Need specific advice? Just ask!

We’d be delighted to offer our suggestions for your needs and site conditions. Simply contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk or call 01723 862406. We can also create a bespoke quote

Why prune?

Pruning helps to keep the size and shape of your plants in check, keep them healthy and maximises their potential growth.

When to prune?

The best time to prune is late winter/early Spring when the hard frosts are behind us. Pruning too early will leave the plants exposed and at risk of being damaged if there is a hard frost. Mild frosts of -1 or -2 won’t affect recently pruned plants.

Pruning plants during the dormant season is effectively like doing it whilst they’re asleep. They will then wake up in the Spring knowing exactly where and how to grow!

Plants go through two ‘flush’ phases during the year. The first and largest is between April and June and then again from the end of August to October. Pruning before this big period of growth will prepare them to flourish!

The exception is early flowering shrubs which will already have flower buds on. It’s probably best to leave pruning them until them until mid-summer when they’re in full growth and after flowering.

Also Cherry trees are best pruned when they are in full growth. Winter pruning can allow disease to enter the plants.

Do you have Birch trees? They can bleed a lot after pruning. So don’t leave it too late to ensure they’re still dormant when you prune.

How to prune

At this time of year, you can give your plants a really hard prune to get them back into shape. Remember to cut shrubs and trees back to just above the bud so they’ve got something to grow back from.

Don’t worry about cutting evergreen leaves on your hedging plants. This won’t cause any harm.

A good pair of secateurs should be sufficient to prune back shrubs and smaller hedging plants. For larger hedges you’ll need some hedging shears or a petrol hedge trimmer.

Need specific advice? Just ask!

If you unsure about how to prune your plants or have a specific concern, please get in touch. Simply contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk or call 01723 862406.

• at the end of April
• at the end of May
• a final one at the end of June

It is not advisable to feed after this with anything that is too high in nitrogen as it can make the plants too soft going into the autumn and winter. My personal preference is for a granular feed that can be scattered around the base of the plant and then watered in. But if you want to be organic you can use blood, fish and bone according to the manufacturers recommendations. Or use one of the water-soluble feeds if this fits in with your watering regimes.

Feeding at this time of year is particularly advisable for evergreens such as laurels, which are greedy feeders and can be looking a bit yellow and starved at this time of year. A feed now will dramatically improve their colour and maximise the amount of spring growth.

A hungry yellow laurel

Need specific advice? Just ask!

If you’d like to discuss your requirements with one of experienced team, please get in touch. We’d be delighted to offer our suggestions for your needs and site conditions. Simply contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk or call 01723 862406.

As we pass into late spring, everything is growing vigorously. We would strongly advise to check newly planted trees and shrubs for water stress now that they have fully come out of dormancy. Beware of dry spells but also be aware that roots need to breathe so too much water (waterlogging) will do as much harm as not enough. Water stress can be particularly noticeable on newly planted laurels. The picture above shows how it is usually the older leaves that yellow first through water stress. But in spring this may coincide with the usual shedding of the oldest leaves anyway.

It is necessary to carry out a regular watering regime for the first two years. At this time of year I would recommend watering as follows:-

• Our big shrubs  – 4 litres  (1 gallon or ½ a large watering can) every 2 to 3 days.
• Our trees and instant laurel hedging – 9 litres (2 gallons or 1 large watering can) every 2 to 3 days.
• Our very big trees – 18 litres (4 gallons or 2 large watering cans) every 2 to 3 days.

However, in particularly hot, dry, sunny and/or windy weather you may need to increase the frequency further, or reduce it in a period of wet weather. Also alter the amounts accordingly depending on the conditions on site as poorly-drained sites. Those on heavy clay will need less watering than those on sandy soils.

Plants usually give you fair warning that they are stressed before they die by turning older leaves yellow and then dropping them. In severe drought the soft new growth wilts and shrivels!

If you have a soaker hose fitted on an outside timer make sure it is switched on for at least 20 minutes a day (sandier soils may require more).

A lot of plants, in particular laurels, can look hungry in the spring. This is indicated by the plant yellowing. We would advise an immediate feed with a high nitrogen fertiliser and with a follow up treatment at the end of June or early July.

Need specific advice? Just ask!

If in doubt or if you have any queries please do not hesitate to get in touch. We’d be delighted to offer our suggestions for your needs and site conditions. Simply contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk or call 01723 862406.

Evergreens can also look particularly brown if there’s been a ‘Beast from the East’ weather event which practically freeze dries plants. Don’t worry, this isn’t permanent damage and the plants aren’t dying. The brown leaves will start to drop off as spring progresses and new young fresh growth will emerge. A good fertiliser regime will maximise the new growth and help to repair the damage as soon as possible

We would recommend the use of a high nitrogen feed with lower rates of potash and phosphate. In the case of Photinia they will also benefit from a good dose of magnesium at the same time. Feeds like these can be bought from any reputable garden centre.

It is a good idea to give your plants another feed at the end of May and a final one at the end of June. Coincide this last feed with a good prune and your plants will soon be back to full health.

Need specific advice? Just ask!

If you have any specific concerns about your evergreen plants, please get in touch. We’d be delighted to offer our suggestions for your needs and site conditions. Simply contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk or call 01723 862406.

A common misconception is that evergreens don’t drop their leaves. They do, just not all at once. They shed the oldest foliage throughout the year to varying degrees. However most evergreens drop the greatest amount in spring and early summer coinciding with the new season’s vigorous flush of growth. If left unchecked some species can quickly become leggy after their spring leaf drop. This is especially true of species like the Photinia as they tend to produce the new growth at the shoot tips and shedding what’s below or behind. A spring prune can be used to force them to reshoot lower down and thicken up again.

To avoid damage, don’t prune evergreens during a cold snap. Also bear in mind nesting birds. Not only would it be ethically and environmentally undesirable to disturb nesting birds but it is also illegal. Therefore, you should always check for nesting activity first before pruning dense evergreens and delay if necessary, until August if you have to.

Many of the more vigorous evergreen species such as laurel and Photinia are also quite hungry plants. They can often be a little starved for nutrients at this time of year, especially in their first couple of years after planting. A balanced feed such as Fish, Blood and Bone applied twice per year, once in March or April and then again in mid-June, will help to keep them growing well. It will also encourage them to quickly reshoot after pruning.

For key signs of nutrient deficiency, such as yellowing of the foliage, then a bigger “boost” in spring may be required. You should apply a suitable high-nitrogen fertiliser, and perhaps followed by an application of Epsom Salts for a jolt of Magnesium, to restore a lustrous green.

Need specific advice? Just ask!

If you have any specific concerns about pruning your evergreen plants, please get in touch. We’d be delighted to offer our suggestions for your needs and site conditions. Simply contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk or call 01723 862406.

Carefully selected shrub planting forms the backbone of ornamental planting schemes, whether for low maintenance and contemporary designs, or for more traditional mixed or cottage garden styles. For height and structure no garden should be without them, but it’s all too easy to choose poorly.

It’s important to choose the right shrub for your situation. Some useful questions include:

What is the shrub for?

What is it for? Is it purely for ornamental purposes, or to provide screening and privacy? For privacy, it might not need to be evergreen, but you will probably want it to be densely branched. For security you may also want thorns or prickles, for wildlife you may want flowers and berries, and so on.

What type of planting scheme is it for?

The shrubs you choose for a formal scheme may be more limited in the number of different varieties used and require regular clipping for topiary. However informal gardens would benefit from more “naturalistic” forms and shapes.

Space and effort

How much space do you have, how large do you want it to get, and what maintenance are you prepared to do? Don’t choose shrubs that will grow too large for the available space unless you’re prepared to periodically prune them.

What will grow in the spot you’re thinking of?

Once the position, size and shape of the desired planting bed has been decided, you do of course need to know what will work in the conditions. This is probably the most important factor of all when choosing any plants, not just shrubs. There is no point setting your heart on something which simply won’t thrive in the conditions on-site.

For instance, almost no evergreens will grow for very long in soil which is regularly flooded or waterlogged. There’s no point in planting ericaceous shrubs such as Rhododendrons in limy soil as they won’t survive unless grown in acid conditions.

So, consider:

• soil conditions – is it wet, dry, clay, chalk, slope, possibly contimated by salt or other problems?
• exposure – such as wind, temperature, salt spray
• aspect – is there plenty of natural light, or is it in the shade?
• competition from nearby trees
• proximity to drains and buildings
• grazing animals which might eat them
• any other relevant factors

How big do you want to plant?

Planting larger stock will of course bring faster results, and reduces the temptation to plant too many shrubs for the space. But there are basic logistical matters to consider with bigger plants such as handling and access on site. Also consider that bigger plants will need more watering at first until they can get established. Can you commit to watering them?

Are there legal issues involved?

Plants must be chosen carefully and sympathetically, taking neighbouring properties into consideration. For example, tall evergreens over two metres tall, if two or more are grown together as to form a continuous screen, can sometimes lead to neighbourhood disputes if close to the boundary. They may even become subject to the “high hedge legislation” under the Anti-social Behaviour Act. Therefore, if tall screening is needed, can it be achieved with deciduous options instead?

Do you like the plant?

If, after having gone through all the previous steps, you don’t like your remaining options you may want to reconsider some of your initial criteria. If in doubt, do seek our advice.

Above and below: Mixed shrub planting provides structure

Some of our favourites

Remember when selecting shrubs for a shrub or mixed border, it’s best to ensure interest all year round. This can be achieved by providing some winter structure from evergreens (30-50% evergreens is a good guide). Don’t be seduced by the seasonal colours of just what is looking at its peak at the time.

This is especially important in mid-Spring when so many shrubs are putting on a fantastic display. Shrubs in flower in April may include showy deciduous varieties of Forsythia, Deutsia, Kolkwitzia, Kerria, Magnolia, some Viburnums, as well as evergreens such as Berberis and Osmanthus. The latter produces flowers with the most amazing scent.

One shrub which you may not be aware of, but one which will be the star attraction of your spring garden, is Amelanchier lamarckii (Snowy Mespilis). This graceful shrub has a light, airy habit providing dappled shade. It can be grown into open, multi-stemmed specimens which are equally at home in formal garden designs or in more naturalistic landscapes.

Regular clipping will produce a denser shrub for use where space is limited or even as an ornamental and informal hedge. Suited to most soil types, as long as they aren’t too limy, Amelanchier usually produces its magnificent display of star-shaped white blossom in mid to late April. In autumn, if planted where it can receive plenty of direct sunlight, Amelanchier will reward you with a fiery display of autumn foliage splendour.

Above: Amelanchier blossom is one of the highlights of spring.

Jobs to do in April:

• If you haven’t done so already, be sure to start the regular watering of any trees, shrubs or hedging planted within the last two years. If automatic irrigation systems have been installed, check them for leaks and re-set timers as required.
• Feed trees, shrubs and hedging with a balanced feed. Flowering specimens can be given a plant food with extra Potash to encourage blooms, such as tomato food or a good rose fertiliser. Vigorous evergreens such as laurel, Portuguese Laurel, Photinia and so on will need a feed with extra Nitrogen. Ideally also give them some Magnesium to restore vigour and a lustrous green to the foliage, especially if planted within the last two years.
• Are your Photinias looking sparse and getting leggy? April is a good time to give them a hard prune. Don’t forget to feed them straight afterwards.
• Only prune hedges now if you are sure that there are no birds nesting in them.
• Early-season shrubs which have already flowered can be pruned now. Cotinus (Smoke Bush) can still be pruned in April. If you haven’t already pruned them yet, hard-prune Cornus (Dogwood) early in April to produce the brightest-coloured stems for next winter.
• Deal with weeds now as they emerge, especially quick-seeding species before they spread. A little work now will save a lot more later in the summer.
• Edge the lawn. Not only will it help to make lawns look tidier but will also help clearly define the edges of beds and borders for the coming season.

Get some expert advice

On our nursery, where we sell larger stock anyway, it’s easy for customers to get a sense of how the shrubs will look and will fit into their gardens. Our stock is too large for most customers to simply pick up and take away in their cars. This means the sales process, whether in person (on the nursery or through an on-site consultation) or through exchanged emails of photos, etc, involves more discussion and advice than the normal retail experience.

If you want help selecting shrubs for your garden, whether just to fill some gaps or for a complete garden makeover, we offer a full advisory service. We would invite you to make an appointment for a one-to-one with one of our horticulturalists on the nursery. Or to book an on-site consultation for us to come to you. You can also contact us at enquiries@wykeham.co.uk with photos, measurements and your contact telephone number so that we can discuss your requirements with an informal, no-commitment chat.